- Altitude: 4,210m/13,812ft ; hike/trek time: 5 – 6 hours
Again a lovely walk in glorious high mountain country, crossing the highest pass, the Simkota La 4,210m/13,812ft. From the lake a wide stone path between rhododendrons leads to traversing a basin, which contains the 3rd lake. Two other lakes are above and out of sight, one male, one female and collectively they are called Dungkar Tsho.
The latter of these has a very strong spirit and if anything ‘dirty’ is done nearby, cloud comes down and only goes away with many prayers. The path is a mixture now of small passes, mountain tracks, some of which wander underneath cliffs. You may meet monks on their way from Thimphu to visit the sacred lake of Jimi Langtsho, where they meditate for a few days before returning.
The rocky mountain next to the highest pass, Thujedraj, used to be used for sky burials in the old days. Lower down there is one smaller pass with a chorten which looks directly down onto Thimphu.
Here you will have lunch (3½ hours to here) and then the path zigzags down to Phadjoding. There is time to rest, wash and then see the temples. There is a recent one, constructed with funds donated by the 4th King’s Secretary, dedicated to Padma Sambava, but the 9th and 16th Jey Khempos (head monk of Bhutan) built the two main ones.
These are gorgeous buildings with golden roofs and acolyte monks will show you the inner temples. Phadjoding is a great meditation centre and there are a number of houses dedicated to retreat. A particular type of branch is put outside the front door, showing that the incumbent is not to be disturbed. High up on the cliff behind Phadjoding is a famous hermit temple, built many hundreds of years ago and still used today.